Through the Grapevine

– by Betsy Ross

Imagine that you’re walking along the street in Florence, Italy, and you see a tiny arched wooden door, a little lower than eye level, perhaps with a bell hanging next to it. It looks like a glorified pet door or, from speakeasy days, the kind of door you’d say, “Joe sent me,” when someone inside slides it open.

That, my friends, is a wine window. And it is what it says—you get wine from it.

If you’re a devotee of Stanley Tucci’s old CNN show, “Searching for Italy,”  you know about the wine windows:  Cozy little nooks where you can stop by on your walking tours of the area and purchase a glass of wine to go. Thanks to Mr. Tucci, and the COVID pandemic, they’re seeing a revival as a neighborhood stop and a tourist draw.

First, some history: Wine windows are most prevalent in the city of Florence (around 150 of them) and another 100 are found scattered around towns in Tuscany. They were built out of convenience, then used out of necessity in the 16th century. The convenience was a decree that allowed families that produced wine to sell wine directly to the public without taxes, regulations, etc. The necessity came in 1630 when an outbreak of the plague prevented gathering in restaurants and cafes—wine windows were a socially distanced way to still enjoy a glass.

The windows fell out of favor in the late 20th century but became popular again in 2020 and 2021 because of the pandemic and now are enjoying a second act as a tourist stop. Some are on main streets, some are in alleyways, some advertise, some are secret little hideaways. But all have basically the same routine—you knock on the door or ring the bell, a disembodied hand slides it open, (think “Thing” from The Addams Family) and you place your order-there might be a drink menu posted outside, there might not. 

You hand over your money or credit card, the door slides closed, then a minute later, two drinks appear in to-go plastic glasses. Easy! 

So how do you find Italy’s wine windows? Several travel sites and bloggers have information on where to find them, including Devour Tours, Buchette del Vino and Solo Sophie. Or, do what we did: Google “wine windows near me” and we found one around the corner from our hotel in Florence’s city center, a five-minute walk away.

The wine window is a unique feature that just adds to the charm and history of the city of Florence. So while you’re walking past Dante’s birthplace or the House of Medici on your way to check out Michaelangelo’s David, you just might find an inviting arched window with a bell outside. Make a quick stop and take in another feature of Florence’s storied past.